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Written by Ann Bauer // Lake Elmo, MN
Located in the quaint town of Lake Elmo, Minnesota, is an acclaimed restaurant with both local charm and national appeal. Its existence dates back to the 1940s and has been known by various names such as Ben’s Inn and Elmo Inn.
It wasn’t until 1983, when a young chef by the name of John Schiltz took over the business and renamed the restaurant Lake Elmo Inn. The restaurant soon took off and claimed its place among the best restaurants in the country.
Although Schiltz’s rise to local stardom didn’t just appear out of thin air and without hard work, it did start with an endearing story of fate.
His introduction to the foodservice industry was actually quite ordinary. In high school, Schiltz began working at the Inn for the restaurant’s previous owner. He continued to work there as a dishwasher and then as a cook for the next four years while he finished high school and studied culinary arts at St. Paul College.
After graduating, he traveled around the country working for various restaurants until he landed in Des Moines, Iowa, where he became the executive chef for Hyatt.
About a year and a half later, during what could have been just another weekend visit to his home town, was a stroke of luck that turned out to be a pivotal moment in the trajectory of Chef Schiltz life, and in the history of the Inn.
Schiltz made the trip home that weekend to attend a wedding of a local lumberyard owner, and by chance, that was the day the Inn went on the market.
“He did not want to sell to me,” said Schiltz of the previous owner—the same man who employed him during high school and college.
“I said to him, ‘I can do it, I know I can.’” Schiltz persisted that his education and experience with the Hyatt had given him the confidence and skills to run his own restaurant.
It was not an easy sell. In fact, had it not been for the previous owners wife eavesdropping around the corner, things might have ended a little differently. After hearing Schiltz talk so passionately about taking over the business, she insisted they give him a chance.
And so, on December 1st, 1983, he embarked on a new adventure and never looked back.
The vibe at the restaurant gives an immediate sense of nostalgia. Located on a corner lot in downtown Lake Elmo, the historic building looks picturesque, with its original bed and breakfast foundation, neatly arranged flowerbeds, and glass-enclosed dining room.
The interior walls of the restaurant lined with thousands of salt and pepper shakers, come with a unique story of their own.
“It was the second Friday of May in 1984,” said Schiltz, as he recalled a review he received from a Star Tribune writer. “He wrote an article on us in the food section that day, and he criticized what was on my book shelf.” After the article was published, he approached his grandmother about buying her collection of salt and pepper shakers so he could decorate the book shelves in his new restaurant. Since then, loyal customers, have added to the collection. “I have about 7,000,” he said. Only 1,200 shakers are on display, the rest are in storage.
The traditions continue throughout meal service. Each entrée at his restaurant starts with a traditional French pallet cleanser called an intermezzo—a light and refreshing two-bite sorbet meant to set the stage for the main entrée—and ends with a hot hand towel infused with cinnamon fragrance and a chocolate dipped strawberry to sweeten the deal.
“For us, we are so different, it’s about providing the whole experience. We want people to come here and have an experience and have a memory,” said Schiltz.
In Lake Elmo Inn’s early days, Schiltz had 10 cooks. Now he has 25 between the restaurant and the catering business. He employs about 175 total at one given time.
Over the years, the Inn has had many renovations, including the addition of what Schiltz calls the “Modern Room,” inspired by the Louvre Pyramid in Paris, France. This patio area has old-world charm, while the all-glass enclosure gives it a contemporary feel.
They also expanded their catering services in 2006, with the purchase a new event space. “Catering has been part of our life here for about 30 years,” Schiltz said. “But it has grown rather quickly since the opening of our event center.”
The majority of the catering is still done off-site,
and is coordinated by his wife, Chris Schiltz. They have five trucks that cater weddings, fundraisers, and corporate business events throughout the year. The event space itself accommodates up to 300 guests, and they service a half-a-dozen or so weddings every year in the courtyard.
Schiltz has built a solid foundation for the restaurant to run on with many years of hard work. “For 13 years, I lived above the restaurant. Every day I was awake, I was at work,” he said. “Now it’s just about having the right people.”
As Schiltz looks to the future, he’s looking forward to more time off with his wife, along with the continued success and growth of the restaurant. He is proud and confident that he and his team have the ability to continue the tradition of Lake Elmo Inn’s hospitality for many years to come.
